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Design
First the design to be used is chosen.
Generally a sample cloth is selected and analysed using graph
paper. The pattern section is drawn out and then broken
down into units. Rumals are designed with two motifs repeated
across the cloth 2, 3, 4 or more times. There are some rumals
that have a single motif with no repeats. This means that a
great deal more tying is done, increasing the time component
greatly. The detail border at the top of this page is an example
of the single motif rumal. These are fairly rare. The
pieces with many repeats can be tied much faster.
Because the designs are most often
symmetrical, this can reduce the tying units by half. The example
on the graph paper to the right consisted of fifteen units,
eight in one motif and seven in the other.
The weaver must be able to analysed
carefully how many threads must be tied in each unit. This depends
on yarn count determining how many threads will be woven per
inch. The most typical yarn used is 2/80 count, however 2/120
count is used also and makes a fine cloth.
The prepared and treated warp now
is counted into units. Eighteen threads will be used for each
square on the graph paper. Planning for three repeats and allowing
for symmetrical shapes, most units have 108 threads. The centre
of the repeats only has 54.
The warp is taken outside and tied
under tension to a permanent cement post on one end and a moveable
wooden brace on the other. Cross sticks are inserted at either
end and part way down the length, keeping the warp spread out
and in perfect order. Then the units are counted out and broken
away from the next unit, attaching the broken end back on itself.
The threads for the eight inch red border are counted off into
a separate group. White threads are also counted out for the
stripes and edge.
Folding is the
next step used to enable the tying of 8 or 10 rumals along the
length at one time. Precision is necessary for the woven cloth
to have the warp designs intersecting with those of the weft.
This is also a project for team work. When the warp is folded,
it is carefully carried inside for marking of the design.
Click arrow to watch
the folding
VIDEO -262 KB
Now it's time to look at
Tie-Dyeing
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working out the design on graph paper.
fabric with drawn design and warp
stretching out the warp
counting
marking design
click on thumbnails to enlarge
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