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WEAVING
Rambiyamma winds
bobbins of the weft so the weaving can begin
The great preparation of tie-dyeing
warp and weft constitutes the largest proportion of time in
the Telia Rumal process. Now setting up the loom requires precision
in maintaining the dyeing alignment so carefully calculated
and executed.
The reed
is threaded, by tying onto the cut end of the previous warp
so the ends can be pulled through the reed and heddles
saving a great deal of time. It then is taken outdoors to
stretch the length out fully where there is plenty of space
to work. Any repairs to the warp are made before going to the
loom. The warp in perfect condition, is then folded up neatly
to be carried to the loom.
The heddles are hooked on, reed
set in place and front ends of warp are attached to the breast
beam of the pit loom. Lease sticks are left in, behind the heddles,
to keep the threads in order. Then the weaver goes to the back
of the loom and stretches the warp out the length of the room,
attaching the loose end to a pole. Much care must be taken to
get even tension and perfect alignment.
The weaving begins using a fly shuttle,
operated by pulling a cord in the center of the loom. When weaving
plain fabric this can go extremely fast, but with double ikat
each throw of the shuttle has to be carefully checked to make
sure that the design is intersecting perfectly. However there
is always a slight movement of yarn that creates a feathered
edge to the motifs giving a characteristic blurring of the design
when inspecting closely. At this beginning stage minor adjustments
are made to any imperfections of alignment that show up with
the first few inches of weaving.
It is important to check behind
the heddles often to loosen any yarns that are starched together
or twisted. Broken threads can be mended as the work progresses.
A Master Weaver can weave the full length of eight rumals
in 4 or 5 days, however the average weaver could take several
weeks to complete the piece.
When finished, the fabric is starched
before being removed from the loom. When dry the product
is inspected for any flaws which are then mended. This finishes
the lengthy process.
Could you have imagined so much
work was required to produce this cloth?
This video is 418 KB
Ramulu puts new colour bobbin in shuttle.
Can you hear him suck the thread through the feed hole on bobbin?
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Ramulu, a Master Weaver, is placing the reed in the
beater
tying the warp behind the loom
adjusting the design before starting to weave
the weaving progresses
starched rumal drying
Gajam brothers Yadagiri and Ramulu display the finished
rumal
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