Within the genre many designs have developed, most within the same basic colour range derived from the alizarin red dye and black colour obtained from rusty iron solution or deep indigo. The oil treatment in the dye process has given these textiles a characteristic odor and taste. According to old records purchasers would often pull out a thread from the selvedge to chew, judging authenticity of dye process by taste. The earliest were created with the simplist geometric checks made by tie-dyeing the yarn to create lines of white when the fabric was dyed red. Then threads were wrapped to retain red areas while black dyeing was carried out.

see treatment

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